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Care
Of Living Willow
Structures After Planting |
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It's a good idea to leave your
newly planted structure well alone, apart from watering, for
the first couple of months if possible. The disturbance caused
by children playing in domes and tunnels can knock off new shoots
and discourage rooting.
 WATERING
Remember that newly planted structures are made from live willow
rods that are giant cuttings, these need to be given a good
start to encourage good root growth. Living willow structures
need plenty of water in the first spring after planting to enable
the rods to develop healthy root systems. As the structure comes
into leaf it is important to water regularly to help growth.
A dry spring or summer can be harmful to new growth and cause
new leaves and roots to die back.In severe drought conditions
the bark on the rods can dry out, killing all of the buds and
causing the structure to fail. For this reason it is a good
idea to leave a shallow trench, about the width of a spade,
around the edge of the structure to assist easy watering by
hosepipe or can. Remember, watering is a task that children
enjoy!
A top dressing of compost or peat substitute will help to prevent
the soil from drying out. Another way of preventing the soil
from drying is to mulch with a black plastic sheet that can
be covered with bark chippings to hold it down and prevent the
wind from lifting it.
 FEEDING
Willows are usually happy in most soil conditions apart from
extremely dry or extremely wet. If your soil is very poor then
structures can be top dressed with organic matter such as manure
or compost each winter. Just spread the compost around the stems.
Otherwise your willows will grow happily with minimal gardening
demands.
 WEAVING
IN NEW GROWTH
Willows can grow very quickly in good conditions. This growth
can be gently woven into the structure throughout the summer.
As new growth is soft and easily damaged it is important to
weave shoots in lightly without forcing or bending them too
abruptly. For domes and arbours try to pull new growth into
the top of the structure by reaching through from the inside,
grabbing the outside shoots and drawing them inside the structure.
The tips will then grow back through the top creating a firm
mass of shoots. If growth is very thick some shoots will need
cutting back to where they sprouted from. Fast-growing shoots
can be tied along structural rods that have failed to grow to
act as replacements.
 TYING
IN SHOOTS
It is often necessary to tie supporting rods and summer shoots
in together to maintain a solid structure. Rods that are firmly
tied together can eventually graft forming a living secure join.
Use biodegradable material as a tie to make sure that the growing
rods are not strangled, as this will restrict growth. It's far
better for the ties to slowly rot off after doing their job
of holding the rods in position. If possible use thin willow
stems as ties and a simple knotting technique. Start with the
fat butt end, wind around the rod and shoots, and push the thin
tip through the core of the winding to hold everything firm.
If willow is not available use gardener's twine or other string.
Rubber bands can also be used as temporary ties as they will
expand as the shoots get thicker.
Please avoid using plastic tree ties or wire as they will cut
into the growing stems and eventually kill off all the growth
above them unless they are regularly loosened - a time consuming
task! It's also sensible to keep sharp wire away from
children's play areas.
 PRUNING
Willow structures will need pruning each year to prevent them
turning into trees. Pruning should be carried out between winter
and spring, when the leaves have dropped and before new growth
begins. Pruning promotes new growth so it is important to regularly
prune some rods to a low level to ensure that the structure
retains leaf growth from top to bottom. Cut back all side shoots
not used for weaving, to two or three buds from the point of
growth. This is important as new wood has the brightest colours.
Any strong shoots can be planted as cuttings to replace failed
rods or fill in gaps that have appeared. Plant cuttings at least
9 inches deep, preferably 12 inches. Make planting holes with
a stake such as an iron bar and weave the new rod down through
the existing structure before pushing it into the planting hole.
 PLANTING
CUTTINGS AS BACKUP
Short willow cuttings about 12 inches long can be planted around
the outside edge of the structure to provide new shoots, which
will compensate for failing structural rods. These cuttings
are often referred to as 'pegs'. Each cutting should be planted
6-9 inches deep into the ground.
 WINTER
WORK
Willow structures sometimes need some winter work to repair
damaged or failed structural rods. Large freshly cut rods can
be planted and woven into the structure to give more strength
and stability. Leave any failed rods in place and plant the
new shoots alongside.
 PEST
CONTROL
Rabbits can destroy a willow structure by eating the bark and
shoots before the rods have a chance to develop roots and start
new growth. Plastic tree guards can prevent this, as can rabbit
proof netting. Rodents can sometimes live under the mulch and
nibble the bark off cuttings. Local cats should help to keep
them under control! Slugs and snails can also attack willow
leaves so it is important to encourage hedgehogs and toads to
live nearby. This can be done in a number of ways:
- CREATE A COMPOST HEAP
Birds will feed off the mini-beasts that congregate in a
compost heap, as will hedgehogs and toads who will nest
in its centre. A word of warning though – Before using
the compost, test the base and sides gently for sleeping
wildlife.
PLANT A HEDGE INSTEAD OF A FENCE
Flowering hedges provide flowers and fruits for wildlife,
nesting places for birds and cover for hedgehogs. They are
also much more attractive than fences. Recommended hedging
species include: beech, holly (evergreen winter shelter
for roosting birds), hazel, goat willow, or hawthorn.
- MAKE A GARDEN ROCKERY
Toads, newts and female frogs usually spend winter on land,
under rockery stones. Recommended plants for a rockery garden
include: aubretia, hardy geraniums, ivies, sedums, sempervivum
and wild thyme.
 OTHER
PESTS
Willows can be attacked by a variety of insect pests but can
usually survive without any special help. Caterpillars and aphids
can demolish leaves and stunt any new growth. Wasps can also
be a problem as they feed on the aphids. Check regularly for
greenfly and aphids during the growing season and treat with
mild washing up liquid spray. Add 2 -3 drops of washing up liquid
to 1 litre of water, put the liquid in after the water otherwise
you will get a sprayer full of bubbles! An old thoroughly washed
out kitchen spray container makes a useful insect sprayer. It
could be a task for a school group to carry out together with
several sprayers.
Soft soap can be used in a similar way with the same dilution.
To ensure the spray is effective, take care to cover all of
the plant foliage, including the tips, and spray each area repeatedly.
This usually kills off attacks, however for more serious infestations,
spray with a safe non-persistent organic pesticide (e.g. Baby
Bio, Organic Pest Control) and keep children away from the site
for a few days.
 HUMAN
PESTS
Willow structures can often suffer from vandalism. Domes and
arbours can be pulled apart by children hanging or climbing
on the structure. This can usually be repaired by replacing
broken or missing rods with new material and tying in rods that
have been pulled astray (see section 6: Basic Troubleshooting).
Vandals rarely uproot structures so even broken rods can regrow
from soil level. It is often best to leave a vandalized structure
alone to grow through the summer and carry out repairs in the
winter when the leaves have fallen.
The new growth can then be tied into place with string. Domes
and arbours can be helped by using non-living rods as supports
to maintain the shape. It is also a good idea to put in a strong
central stake or two in the middle of the structure to help
hold up the roof until a good canopy has grown. Tie in new growth
along the temporary supports that are themselves attached to
the centre stakes.
 ACCIDENTAL
VANDALS
Willow structures can also suffer from accidental damage if
strimmers are used around them by over zealous groundsmen. Try
to have a buffer zone around the outside of your structure,
either by planting flowers in a narrow border, maintaining a
strip of bare soil or bark chipping. If grass is allowed to
grow through the edges of a structure it tends to spoil the
overall effect unless your dome or tunnel is in a wildlife area! |
